Stow-on-the-Wold

When to Visit

One of the beautiful things about the Cotswolds is that they make a perfect travel destination in any season. Obviously, certain times of the year will create a certain type of trip which is worth keeping in mind.

​Spring​

This is an often ignored time of year, and you will find many of the villages quieter than in the later months of the year. The weather can be a tad unpredictable, but if you can hack the changeability, you are rewarded with trees in blossom, perfect walking and exploring weather, and fields full of frolicking lambs.

​Summer

​This is the busiest time in Stow-on-the-Wold and the Cotswolds in general. The warmer weather makes planning your trip more reliable, and the temperatures will be more reliable (ish!)​

Autumn

This is when things start to quieten down slightly, especially in September when the UK schools go back. However, don’t be fooled; you probably still won’t have the village to yourself. Instead of families, walkers descend upon the Cotswolds, taking advantage of the milder weather for a good old hike.

Winter

​This is when it really is at its quietest. Yes, there may be wind, rain, and snow. But there are also beautiful frosty mornings and crisp blue skies. It is also the weather to tuck into a cosy pub and relax in front of a crackling fire.​

The History

One of the highest points in the area, Stow-on-the-Wold has been home to a settlement since the Iron Ages.

​It has long held a prime position as it sits directly on the Fosse Way. Built by the Romans, this road was incredibly important. The town was built on the site of an Iron Age fort, with Neolithic flint arrowheads found during building works and renovations.​

Being on the Fosse Way ensured that Stow remained important, as it was a strategic place for coaches and horses to stop, bringing continued wealth and prosperity to the village.

​Today, it stands at the junction of six roads, making it a popular place to stop with tourists exploring the Cotswolds.

Things to See and Do

St. Edward’s Church

Just behind the Market Square, this medieval church has parts that date all the way back to the eleventh century. Over the years, other sections were added, and the whole thing was renovated in the 17th century, and then again in 1873. This is why much of the interior has a very Victorian feel.

​St. Edward’s Church played a big part in the English Civil War. Following their defeat at nearby Donnington, 1000 Royalist prisoners were kept here. You can also see memorials to local soldiers who fought and lost their lives in the First and Second World Wars.

Durin’s Door

The front door to St Edward’s Church is probably more popular than the main church. Round the other side from the current entrance, it poses an imposing figure. Its claim to fame is that it was said to be the inspiration behind J.R.R. Tolkien's ‘Durin’s Door’ while writing Lord of the Rings.

Market Square

Stow-on-the-Wold has almost always been a market town, with Henry II granting the town a charter to hold markets in 1107. The main trade here has been sheep, with writer Daniel Dafoe observing that 20,000 sheep were sold in a single day at its peak.

​Outside Stow-on-the-Wold

Upper and Lower Slaughter

These small villages lie just outside Stow, and attract their fair share of visitors vying to get photos of the stunning surroundings. There isn’t much to do here, with just a few places to eat and no real ‘attractions.’ However, this makes them perfect for an early morning or late afternoon stroll, followed by a drink or coffee at any of the hotel bars. Visiting at these times will also help you avoid the endless coaches that descend upon these compact villages.​

Where to Eat and Drink

Stow-on-the-Wold has no shortage of good places to eat and drink. From cosy pubs to chic cafes, there is something for all occasions. 

The Porch House

This pub and restaurant is generally thought to be England’s oldest inn, dating back to 947 AD. A rabbit warren of rooms and nooks, this is the perfect place to relax with a pint of local ale. The food on offer is your standard British pub food, including roasts on a Sunday.

The Cotswold Farm

Part of the New England Group, the Scandi-inspired aesthetic in this cafe is a great place to unwind and escape the bustle of Stow. They specialise in pastries and well-made coffee, as well as a small section selling local products. They also have a couple of places to sit outside. (pram-friendly)

The King's Arms

This 500-year-old coaching inn feels like stepping into the past. It has long been a popular spot for celebrities, with King Charles I even staying here in 1645! The menu is gastro British pub food, with gluten-free and vegan options. They also have rooms available.

The Old Stocks Inn

Another old building, this 17th-century building has a surprisingly modern feel while still retaining its original charm. High-end pub food with a focus on seasonal and local produce. Al fresco dining in the garden during the summer (and winter if you’re so inclined!)

Massimo Wine Bar

Another venture by New England Coffee Group, this wine bar specialises in wines by the glass and small plates. The decor is on brand, with Scandi neutrality as the overall vibe. They have weekly offers and special nights, so check their Instagram for details. The entrance is up some steep steps, which won’t suit anyone with a pram or mobility issues.

Otis and Belle

This small chain of bakeries has four branches in the Cotswolds and takes pride in baking their own sourdough bread and pastries. They also serve hot drinks, and especially nice hot chocolate, with tables inside and outside. It is in Talbot Court, which is a bit more relaxing as it is pedestrianised, making it ideal to take a moment’s pause or if you have small children to watch.

The Hive

This unassuming spot has a simple breakfast and brunch menu that will please most people. There are traditional breakfast dishes, as well as sandwiches, soup, and frittatas. There is a good amount of gluten-free options, as well as vegan and children’s options.

Where to Shop

Rhubarb

This is probably one of my favourite shops to look around, even if I can’t afford much! They sell children's clothes, but from smaller, unique brands that you probably haven’t heard of. For anyone with a child who loves dressing up, be warned: they will probably want everything in the back room (and who can blame them!)

Cotswold Cheese Co.

Stocking over 120 cheeses, this is a one-stop shop for all your local artisanal cheeses, as well as some from further afield. They also sell some deli items, such as jams etc. 

Borzoi Bookshop

This independent bookshop is small but expertly curated. They have been trading for more than 40 years, so it is safe to say they know what they are doing.  

Domestic Science

Technically a gift shop, Domestic Science just sells lots of lovely things. Think candles, napkins, ornaments, and homeware. They also have stores in Nailsworth and Tetbury. The step in is quite steep and round a corner, which I found difficult with a pram, but you could leave it just outside the door as the road is pedestrian.

​Where to Stay

Stow-on-the-Wold has a number of places to stay, regardless of your budget. If you are including Stow as part of a larger trip around the Cotswolds, it makes an excellent base as it has some of the better transport links compared to most of the other villages.

The Porch House (from £162)

It isn’t often that you get to stay in a building that dates back to 947 AD! Despite its historical credentials, this hotel offers decent, clean rooms in the centre of the village. The well-designed rooms are in keeping with the cosy theme, and breakfast is available at an additional cost. Dogs are welcome for a small fee.

The Stag (from £105)

With all beams and stone walls, this is another one for the history lovers. The rooms are simple but well-done. Located on the main square, it couldn’t be better located.

Lucy’s Tearoom B&B (from £117)

This quaint tearoom has two rooms upstairs. They aren’t particularly fancy, but they are exactly what you expect for a traditional b&b.

Luxury Stay in Heart of the Cotswolds (£610 for two nights)

This one-bedroom Airbnb apartment is the perfect stay if you want to live out your Cotswold quiet luxury fantasy. Well-located, it is artfully decorated as well as having a terrace to enjoy your takeaway coffee from one of Stow’s artisan cafes.

Visiting with Children

Stow-on-the-Wold isn’t the most child-friendly village. There aren’t any real ‘attractions’, so to speak. However, there are some good beer gardens and tearooms that children will love.

​I have found it is one of the least accessible villages with a pram. The paths are particularly narrow, and the through traffic can be quite busy. Many of the shops and cafes are also up steep steps, making them pretty impossible when I visit alone.

The Practical Bit

By Car

As with all of the Cotswolds, the easiest way to get to Stow-on-the-Wold is by car. There is free parking in the Market Square; however, this is very sought after, so it often comes down to luck if you get a space. There is a pay-and-display car park a 5-minute walk away at Maugersbury Road. There is a two-hour minimum on tickets and £10.60 for ten hours, with after 6 pm free.  

By Public Transport

Stow-on-the-Wold doesn’t have a train station, but it is quite well-connected by bus. The 801 runs between Cheltenham and Moreton-in-Marsh, which both have train stations.

FAQs

Can I take my dog to Stow-on-the-Wold?

Absolutely, dogs are not only welcome, but often encouraged in Stow! However, if you have a nervous dog, the pavements can be narrow with traffic quite busy. Most cafes and pubs are dog-friendly, but it is always a good idea to check before visiting.

​Is Stow a good place to stay on my Cotswolds trip?

As it is on the Fosse Way, it makes an excellent base for exploring much of the Cotswolds, especially the more northern parts.

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